Runway Archive: Emanuel Ungaro a/w 1989-90
10 November, 2017

The picture taken by Paul van Riel shows a model on the runway of Emanuel Ungaro’s a/w 1989-90 fashion show.

Emanuel Ungaro’s a/w 1989-90 fashion show, photo by Paul van Riel. Photo © Paul van Riel / HH.

The model is wearing a shirt and wrap skirt. The shirt, in a dark blue and white dots fabric, is puffy and wide. It is worn with the lower hem tucked into the wrap skirt, accentuating its volume. The wrap skirt, in a gleaming fabric, is pencil shaped, with ruffles appearing on the right from the back of the skirt. 

The width and volume of the shirt may suggests that Emanuel Ungaro is still reminiscent of his master’s lesson. In 1958 the designer was assistant to Cristobal Balenciaga, whose sartorial sculptures are still a landmark of the golden age of couture. Ungaro opened his line in 1965, stating his refusal in creating evening dresses with the aim of dressing a modern wardrobe for contemporary women. His design where celebrated for the clashing mix of bold patterns in bright colours and for the ease of its volumes. After a successful career lasted over forty years, Ungaro retired from fashion only in 2005, when he sold his line.